Big waves are in the surf forecast and they have called the Mavericks Surf contest on for Friday Jan 24th. Good luck to all the contestants; looks to be the largest surf we have seen this season yet with up to 30 foot surf on tap. Read some media hyping 60 feet, but my data shows something more like 4 meters @ 19 sec. That indicates big but not 60 feet. The rest of the exposed coast lines will see plenty of 12 to 15 foot Westerly surf; too much for many spots but some secret zones may have there day as well. Santa Cruz will see a lot of this W swell with head to double over-head surf; bigger at select spots. The swell drops a little but still pumping on Saturday but then a new W swell comes in Sunday that is just a little smaller than the 1st peaking out at 18 foot at exposed areas and 5-10 foot in Santa Cruz. A third West swell arrives Tuesday and then the trend goes smaller.
A series of new WNW swells have started to grace the West coast. The 1st started day after Christmas and has stuck around through Friday with waist to head high waves in Santa Cruz and 5-9 foot waves at exposed beaches. The trend goes larger as the next 2 WNW swells are right on each others backs so there will be plenty of energy in the water. 6-12 surf is forecast with larger sets at larger at big wave spots like Mavericks on Saturday and Sunday with a bump up to triple over head on Monday. Know your limits to come back and surf another day. Santa Cruz will be plenty challenging with 6-10 surf on the weekend and double over head on Monday. The trend does go smaller from there but will still be in the fun zone.
Saturday was an epic day of surf and sun. The entire 3 day weekend was special and had everybody out along the coast enjoying themselves. Saturday January 19th the swells started with a 28 second period and stayed solid at 23-20 second period for 24 hours, that only happens every 5 years or so. The swell size in the data was only forecast to be 2.8 meters (8.4ft), but the frequency was so far apart the entire coast experienced extra powerful very fast moving waves ranging from 6-12 feet.
Overlay perfect Santa Cruz indian winter with 70 degree weather and no wind.
Great weekend for local hero Pete Mel to win the Mavericks Invitational in perfect 15-20 foot surf on Sunday Jan 19th. Congrats Pete!
Long period WNW swells are already showing on the buoys Friday afternoon and on cue the surf picked up along N Santa Cruz county and San Francisco OB before that as the new swell works it’s way down the coast. The surf forecast calls for 4-8 foot surf on Saturday 6-15 foot surf along the Central California beaches more exposed to WNW swells. Santa Cruz will see waist to head high with occasional overhead sets Saturday and chest to well overhead on Sunday. Weather forecast may be the spoiler with 10-25 mph SSW winds chance of rain 80% on Saturday and Sunday with 5-10 mph SSE winds chance of rain 50%. The WNW swell wanes Monday until Wednesday some new WNW swell keeps things surfable. Drops off pretty small by end of week.
Big Sunday (April Fools Day 2012) was huge with offshore wind earlier in the day. There was a lot of current but a few lucky surfers managed to pick off some fun waves. The video shows Pleasure Point, 38th ave, The Hook, Trees, and Hoopers.